A perfectionist is a quality that you want in your painter, someone that takes pride in their work and does not lower the bar just to complete a job. This painter is the perfectionist that you are seeking to get your painting completed. A thorough painter does the proper preparation in the beginning.

For interior painting, we begin by prepping the room with sanding and scraping if needed. These techniques are done to make sure the paint will stick and not chip or peel away prematurely. We patch any holes in the wall and skim coat the drywall. We also caulk any gaps that need to be filled.


We then follow up all the prep work with primer on new walls and if necessary on dark walls. We use the highest quality angled brushes to cut out all of the edges and trim. We then apply the paint on the wall.

Hiring a painter who does not do the necessary prep work, can result in a bad paint job. Yes, hiring the wrong painting company or an inexperienced painter can result in a headache later.

For exterior painting, we follow similar methods. We start with pressure washing and make sure we caulk and scrape and sand where necessary. Sometimes there may be rotten wood that needs to be replaced before the painting can be done. Depending on the severity of the rot, you may need a carpenter to relace it first. Most minor rot, we can take care of. Doorways, entrances, and windows that need replacing would likely have to be done before we paint.

Painting a Room: Preparation, Preparation, Preparation

If real estate is all about location, location, location, then getting a good paint job in a room is about preparation, preparation, preparation. If you want a truly professional, attractive paint job, one that adds visual appeal to your home, you must take your time, in the preparation and execution.

So, let us begin, imagining a room in a house that is currently being lived in. In this home, the trim is all naturally stained wood, and the ceiling is already happily painted white. Only the walls are being painted.

Preparation:

Begin by removing as many objects from the room as possible, and moving all furniture to the center of the room. Cover the furniture with drop clothes, preferably fabric drop clothes – the cheap plastic ones just stick to your feet, and allow paint to puddle, still wet. Remove anything removable, such as wall mounted shelves, outlet and light switch covers, wall hooks, and pictures. If the current paint job is more than two years old, or if the house is subject to smoke, candles burning, or greasy cooking, wash the walls using a mild detergent and water. Wait for it to dry.

In our example, we are not painting the ceiling. But if you were painting the ceiling, you would do that first. Now comes the taping, and yes, you have to tape. Traditional masking tape allows paint to bleed through to unwanted areas, so use painter’s tape, which is designed to prevent paint from sneaking by, and removes without residue.

Taping:

Start simply, putting a piece of tape over the top of all electrical outlets and light switches. Then, move on to the moldings and flooring. Tape off the ceiling, carefully placing the tape right up to the edge, then firmly pressing it down, forming a tight seal with the wall. Next, tape off the window moldings, putting the tape all along the edges. Rub the tape down to get a good seal. Similarly, tape off any non-removable cabinets or built-ins. Tape off the base molding, in similar fashion. Finally, tape drop clothes to the baseboard, spreading them across the floor, covering the entire floor.

If the walls have any spots - screw holes, nail pops, dents - repair these using spackling and sand paper. Then, finally, you are ready to paint. Or prime. Do you need to prime? Maybe. If your walls are a dark or vibrant color, then you should prime to cover the deep color; if your walls have never been painted before, or if there is a lot of spackling or fading, then you should prime. However, if your walls are a light or neutral color, and in good shape, you can skip the priming.

Tools:

First, gather your tools: one brush, one roller handle, one roller cover, a paint tray, a paint can opener, and rags. Specifically, you will need one brush per painter. This should be a 3 inch, angled brush, good for “cutting in” (painting the edges and corners). You will need a roller handle, and a roller cover; roller covers come in different thicknesses. Generally, a quarter inch, or regular nap, is good for smooth walls. If your walls are textured, choose a heavier nap. You will need a paint tray with a disposable liner, a few rags, and a single paint can opener.

Painting:

Begin painting with the cutting in. To get the best finish, always keep paint edges wet. That means, do not brush paint the edges of an entire room, then go back and roller paint the middle; by the time you roll, the edges will be dry, and you will have noticeable edge marks. If you are working alone, cut in a small area, then switch to the roller and roll that spot. Then go back to cutting in further down, then to the roller, ensuring that you are always rolling while the edges are still wet.

As you cut in, be sure to use enough paint to thoroughly cover the surface, but be careful not to paint too thick. Avoid going over the same spot too many times – this will simply remove paint. When you roll, paint overlapping “W”s on the wall, filling it in as you go; this way you get an even texture and color, without accidentally creating vertical lines. Roll as close to the corners and moldings as you can, overlapping your cutting in. Continue in this fashion, all the way around the room.

Finishing Up:

Once you have covered every wall, you are done - except that you will probably need a second coat. Give the first coat at least an hour to dry, then paint the second coat. Really deep colors could require a third coat. While you are waiting for one coat to dry, paint the outlet and switch covers. Giving them at least 3 solid coats, with the roller, will provide a finish that will last a year or two before you start to see scratches. For a longer lasting finish, cover it with a coat of polyurethane.

Once the walls are covered, it is time to clean-up. First, consider the tape. If the walls are still wet, this is the best time to remove the tape; if you wait for the paint to dry, then you must use a utility knife to score around the edge of the tape before removing it, otherwise, the paint could peal up along with the tape. Removing the tape while it is still wet is really the best method.

Next, clean your brushes thoroughly with cool water, rinsing until the water runs clear. To store your remaining paint you can simply reseal the lid, or pour it into a clean plastic jar for future touch-ups. Throw away the disposable paint tray, rinsing any spills from the main tray. The roller cover can be cleaned, but this is so much work that, unless you purchase very expensive roller covers, it really is easiest to throw the cover away. Finally, pat yourself on the back for a job well done.